Havana, Cuba: A Time Traveller's Guide to the Caribbean's Most Extraordinary City
Havana is unlike any city on earth. American cars from the 1950s — Buick, Chevrolet, Ford — cruise the Malecón. Baroque cathedrals glow gold in the late afternoon sun. The air smells of cigar smoke, sea salt and exhaust fumes. Salsa music pours from open windows at 11 in the morning. And everything — everything — is on the edge of magnificent ruin.
This will not last. Go now.
Getting There and Practical Reality
Cuba's infrastructure is challenging. Cash is king (credit cards from US banks don't work; cards from European/Canadian banks may work unreliably). Take euros or Canadian dollars in cash and exchange at CADECA offices. WiFi is limited and requires cards purchased from ETECSA offices.
Old Havana (La Habana Vieja)
UNESCO-listed and magnificent in decay. Walk:
- Plaza de la Catedral — 18th-century baroque cathedral; arguably the finest facade in the Caribbean
- Plaza de Armas — the oldest square in Havana, with a second-hand book market every day
- El Floridita — Hemingway's daiquiri bar (est. 1817); still the best daiquiri in the world, still crowded
- La Bodeguita del Medio — Hemingway's mojito bar; the mojito invented here is still excellent despite the queues
The Malecón
Havana's legendary seafront boulevard stretches 8km. In the evening, it becomes the world's longest open-air bar — locals bring rum, guitars, and chairs to watch the sun set over the Florida Straits. Join them.
Music and Nightlife
- Fábrica de Arte Cubano (FAC) — the most exciting arts complex in Latin America: galleries, cinema, theatre, restaurants and live music all on one site. Thursday to Sunday only.
- Casa de la Música (Miramar): the best live salsa venue in Havana
- El Sauce (Centro Habana): no tourists, real neighbourhood salsa, extraordinary atmosphere
Where to Stay
Casas Particulares (Private Homestays): Cuba's most authentic accommodation option — staying in a Cuban family's home. Regulated by the state, clean, and genuinely warm. Look on Airbnb or booking.com for verified listings.
Boutique/Luxury (Paladares category): Hotel Santa Isabel — an 18th-century palazzo on the Plaza de Armas, renovated to excellent standard. Jimmy Carter stayed here.
Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski — Cuba's first five-star hotel, in a beautifully restored 1910 commercial building on the Parque Central. Pool, rooftop terrace, exceptional cocktail bar.
Mid-range: Hotel Los Frailes — a 16th-century convent in Old Havana converted into a charming colonial-style hotel. Monks'-habit-wearing staff and a very good restaurant.
