Nepal: Trekking the Annapurna Circuit — The Complete Guide
The Annapurna Circuit is one of the world's great long-distance treks — a 160–230 km loop around the Annapurna massif, crossing the Thorong La pass at 5,416m (the world's highest trekking pass regularly used), passing through terrain that shifts from subtropical jungle to high-altitude arctic desert within a week of walking. It requires no technical climbing skills but demands physical fitness, preparation and respect for altitude.
At a Glance
- Duration: 14–21 days (classic full circuit)
- Maximum altitude: 5,416m (Thorong La pass)
- Difficulty: Moderate-Challenging
- Best seasons: March–May (spring) and September–November (autumn)
- Required permits: TIMS card + ACAP permit (available in Kathmandu or Besisahar)
Permit Requirements
All trekkers in the Annapurna Conservation Area require two permits:
- TIMS Card (Trekkers' Information Management System) — NPR 2,000 (solo) / NPR 1,000 (group): obtainable from Nepal Tourism Board offices in Kathmandu or Pokhara
- ACAP Permit (Annapurna Conservation Area Project) — NPR 3,000: same offices
Carry both at all times — they are checked at multiple points along the route.
The Classic Route (North to South)
Besisahar → Chamje → Dharapani → Chame → Pisang → Manang (acclimatisation day) → High Camp → Thorong La Pass → Muktinath → Jomsom → Tatopani → Ghorepani → Poon Hill → Nayapul → Pokhara
Acclimatisation: The Critical Factor
Altitude sickness kills more trekkers in Nepal than falls or hypothermia. The rule is absolute: ascend slowly, never more than 300–500m net gain per day above 3,000m. Manang (3,500m) requires a mandatory rest day.
Symptoms of altitude sickness: headache, nausea, loss of appetite, dizziness, shortness of breath at rest. If symptoms are severe, descend immediately.
The Teahouse System
The Annapurna Circuit has one of the world's best teahouse systems — guesthouses serving accommodation and food at regular intervals along the trail. No camping is required. Expect:
- Dal bhat (lentil soup with rice) — unlimited refills, the best trekking fuel in the world
- Accommodation from $2–15 per night depending on altitude and location
- Solar-heated showers (luxury above Manang)
Pokhara: Before and After
Pokhara is the trekking hub — the place to acclimatise mentally before the circuit and to recover after. Lakeside (Phewa Tal) has excellent restaurants, equipment rental and a genuinely relaxed atmosphere.
Where to Stay
Kathmandu (Luxury): Dwarika's Hotel — the only member of the Leading Hotels of the World in Kathmandu. A restoration project preserving Newari architectural heritage, with the finest restaurant in Nepal (Krishnarpan, 22-course Nepali cuisine).
Hyatt Regency Kathmandu is set within a stupa garden outside the city centre — large, well-managed, with an excellent pool.
Kathmandu (Mid-range): Hotel Yak & Yeti — an institution in Kathmandu, in a converted Rana palace near Durbar Marg. The garden restaurant is exceptional.
Pokhara: Fish Tail Lodge — accessible only by rope-pulled raft, on a peninsula in Phewa Lake with Annapurna reflected in the water in the morning. One of Nepal's most magical properties.